Day 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri. Sore knees, aching muscles and lost toenails
Phew. What a day. Yesterday we had the day from hell. Today was supposed to be much better but it is also the day your body begins to protest against all the effort you’re expending. I’m relatively ok – that’s if I was 95 years old. My joints creak, my shoulders ache, I walk slowly and stooped like an old man. That’s nothing compared to Cheeky.
Cheeky’s got a bad knee, all puffy and aching. On top of that she’s losing a toenail from all the downhills we had to do today. You know you’re on a long walk when you begin to dread anything going down. Despite all of this she just ground it out. It took us about 7 hours to walk 20km. Considering we stopped for about an hour all up we’re doing fantastic. If you saw Cheeky’s toenail and dodgy knee you’d wonder how we did it at all.
The walk itself is quite pleasant. It winds through forests and beautiful centuries old towns with white stonewashed buildings and green or red shutters. There are quite a few ups and downs but the downs are quite steep along rocky ground and they soon prove painful.
At about 3:30 Cheeky and I arrived in Zubiri. Some old woman accosted us in the street and garbled away at us in Spanish. I soon realised this eyebrowless woman was not in fact mad but trying to offer us a room in a pensione. The Camino delivers they say. And it did again today. For €30 we have our own room (yeah!) bathroom and kitchen all to ourselves.
We’re in heaven. At least if heaven is a place where your toenails fall off and your body feels like that of a 90 year old 🙂