Day 7: Los Arcos to Logrono
“They call this the leg breaking part”, she said as I sat down for my cafe con leche. I’d started out walking in a beautiful full moon and stopped for coffee and desayunos (breakfast) when I heard this bit of news. “But not to worry it only goes for about 10km”, she said with a knowing laugh realising that we would all know this was over two hours of walking.
Leg breaking it wasn’t but it did involve many up and downs over the hills and tail end of mountain ranges. The walk was pleasant enough through Olive groves and fields of Almond trees but the muscles I’d developed in the last few days were being put to the test.
In the early morning there was quite a chill in the air that would go on to last most of the day. The air was crystal sharp and blues, purples and pinks painted the sky while the land looked tinted by the sky.
Mid morning I stopped in a beautiful town called Vianna for more coffee and note comparing with fellow walkers. Two german girls I’d met earlier joined me for coffee and I commiserated on the 17kg she was carrying. Most people carry under 10kg but this pretty, special needs teacher was in love with her cosmetics.
From Vianna I headed uphill (surprise, surprise) and walked through the forest of yellow arrows. Some previous route market was going to make sure no pelegrino got last in this forest 😉 I put on my headphones chose some Manu Chao (how appropriate, I hear some of you say) and got into the walking groove, really enjoying the day’s walk.
Coming into Logrono (leaving Navarre region and into La Rioja) was a long, boring 4km walk. Coming into big towns is always dull and this was no exception, in addition my knee was really beginning to ache. I gritted my teeth and plowed on – no pain, no gain could almost be a motto for those of us on the El Camino. The only thing of note was the snail branch bushes, little bushes covered in snails.
That afternoon, after a siesta, I entered into town after 7pm. The place was buzzing, completely alive and vibrant. Streetside cafes full, bars overflowing and families, young couples, kids, tourists and peregrinos filling the streets. I stopped for a beer and tapas before heading back for the 10pm curfew 😦
— Posted from my phone